Route
We visited South Luangwa as a side-trip from Malawi when our friend
was out on holiday. When we came back into Zambia we pretty much drove
straight through – down the T4 to Lusaka and then the T1/T2 to Livingstone
before exiting via Katima Mulilo into Namibia’s Caprivi Strip.
General
impressions
We had originally planning a quick transit through Zambia but we ended
up spending four weeks in the country due to melting our engine on the
way into Livingstone. Despite this, all we saw were the main arteries
and towns, which were very busy and full of facilities. We understand
that there are some very wild and remote areas to explore but the countryside
we saw was dry, dusty and fairly barren.
Border formalities
Zambia has a bizarre ‘visa waiver’ system going on which basically gives
you a free 15-day visa if you can prove you are a tourist by booking
accommodation/activities. For Brits this is especially relevant as the
visas cost $60/$80 for single/multiple entry.
In theory you need
to have a full itinerary in order to qualify but in reality all you
need to do is book accommodation for the day you cross the border. The
lodge or campsite will then send a letter to the border post you are
coming over (this needs to be sent physically so you must to book a
few days in advance). All the campsites in South Luangwa and hostels
in Livingstone are used to doing this – just send them your full names,
nationalities and passport numbers plus the border post you are coming
over and the date you will enter the country.
One word of warning:
the first time we tried this at Mchinji (when we were coming to South
Luangwa with our friend) the immigration officer didn’t have our letter,
however she processed our visa for $40 a piece. The next time we came
over the border we saw our letter and the copy we had given her neatly
stamped with ‘received and processed’ and our free visa stamp looked
suspiciously like our $40 visa stamp.
Finally, the visa
waiver maximum validity is 15-days, but in Livingstone we extended to
45 days for free in a matter of minutes, no questions asked.
Driving
conditions
The roads are not busy and Lusaka has great traffic systems.
Livingstone is full
of over-priced and under-quality restaurants. It’s worth going to the
5-Star Royal Livingstone, even if it’s just for a G&T or afternoon tea
(we treated ourselves to Sunday lunch when we got the car back – great).
We only found good
water supplies, but then we did stay pretty urban.
Costs
Expensive (and that’s without the new engine and the Vic Falls activities!).
£50/day country
(as a couple all in) if you were overlanding normally.
Both diesel and
beer were expensive at 7,000 ZK (90p) per litre/bottle. We filled our
jerries (with fuel, not beer) in Malawi and saved £30. We are now in
Namibia and drinking draught Windhoek at 60p a pint.